A nonlinear, non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves: infragravity wave dynamics on a sloping beach

HIGHLIGHTS

  • who: J. Fluid Mech. et al. from the https://doiorg/101017/jfm2022., Published online by Cambridge University PressDelft University of Technology, CN Delft, The Netherlands have published the research: A nonlinear, non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves: infragravity wave dynamics on a sloping beach, in the Journal: (JOURNAL)
  • how: The energy balance based on the NLS the authors provided a good description of the surfzone IG dynamics simulated with the fully nonlinear and dispersive SWASH model.

SUMMARY

    Linear ocean surface waves shoaling from deep to shallow water refract towards shore . . .

     

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